Monday 7 August 2017

Mounting Doom – Part I

Last week, I had a visit from an old friend who once had to fish me outof a lake and inexplicably still liked me.  We headed off on a boat to see a volcano because I am a masochist. 

After having battled our way through the port and into our seats, I was a little disappointed when the TV was fixed on a channel of gospel music, but decided to use the time to sleep.  This was mostly foiled when a pastor in a shiny grey suit strode in between our seats and began roaring that everything would be okay with God.  No one was overtly contradicting him, but he still felt the need to rail in order to increase our enthusiasm.  A few hapless women who halfheartedly muttered Amen or hummed a few bars of a given hymn he had chosen were immediately ordered to stand and sing or pray.  I had stealthily tried to unearth my camera to capture the moment, but gave up on this in case the man, like any predator, could sense movement. 

Being an idiot, I’d never really understood what his end game was – despite having lived a year and a half in this country – and simply thought he wanted to preach the Word of God and salvation to everyone.  In reality, he was also saving up for a ticket back to Bukavu. 

Can I get an amen.

In the sudden silence after his strident request, wherein I feigned a deep coma and everyone else wished they’d had my sense, the pastor waited.  Sounding like a chain letter from my high school days, he promised that God would bless whoever donated freely and that he, personally, would ensure this through prayer.  Eventually, out of sheer embarrassment (which seemed foreign to the pastor himself), I believe some women contributed (I was too busy sleeping).  Other passengers were encouraged to clap for them and the pastor probably prayed that they received a blessing equivalent to their contribution – of course, they wouldn’t receive their money back if their blessing was missing or damaged, but I’m sure something could be worked out if they called St. Peter at tech support. 

After this, when our immediate neighbours were occupied with my pretty white friend (everyone should have one of them – they’re so convenient), management suddenly decided to change the channel from praise and worship to sexy music videos.  My friend, a level-headed Christian, played intelligent games on her tablet while I watched 2-minute clips of uniformed students passing notes in class, bursting into twerking, being whipped by the teacher, ending up in bed where the guy holds up a badly written poster saying he wants to cook for his little high school sweetheart, then setting a plate of foufou before her, within which she finds a ring!

Oh la la.

I was utterly enthralled by the bulging women and the plotlines that varied from complex (as the one described above) to basic sex, but I did tear myself away every so often to have wonderfully rational conversations with my friend, which I was soon to learn is a very Dutch trait. 

She informed me that relationships and guys were mainly stupid and that life was absolutely fine single, so why go through the hassle?

I fell in love with her ideals (which used to be my own damn ideals until I was worn down by this entire country asking me why I didn’t want to be feminine) and wondered how I came to be sharing a home with a lunatic instead of a normal person who could encourage me to continue to believe that I was always right.

There’s probably some reason God did this. 

We had our share of laughs when we noticed that one of the men next to us on the boat was industriously talking into the back of his phone, and when we were asked if we were twins on the streets of Goma.  This is the only country in which I - a distinctly Indian woman with a large nose, nose ring, dark hair, dark skin, dark eyes, and large amounts of dark eyeliner – have also been identified as Chinese, Norwegian, American, and Dutch.

Personality-wise, I wish I could be Dutch – I learned on this trip that they are direct, independent, lovely people.  We were staying at a house rented by a Dutch couple who worked with the UN; when I heard the wife say, “Yes, well, that is stupid,” to one of our plans without a trace of anger, pride, or distaste, I decided I wanted to be just like her when I grew up. 

Another reason I wanted to be adopted by this dynamic young couple was that their house was surrounded by a lovely garden and almost always had power and water in the dry season – I attribute this to the wife’s incredible organization and drive in viewing 25 houses in a month before deciding on this enclosed Eden.  Carrottop, who usually doesn’t lie to me, recently grievously hurt me with her insistence that no such paradise exists in the Congo.  I am now forced to accept that she is not as omniscient as she appears.    

I win.

The best part was stepping into their warmly lighted bathroom that looked like a page from… some homemaking magazine that I wouldn’t be caught dead reading.  There was a rock wall separating a hot shower from the rest of the room and I only just kept from begging to rent their bathroom for the next six months.  You’d understand this level of desperation if you lived in Bukavu in the dry season with our shower apparatus – the one time I tried using it, I laughed so hard I nearly fell into our toilet.  Something about the way the fixture reluctantly dripped on my collarbone and the thought of Butters patiently standing under this dribble of blessing was too much for me to take. 

As our home now boasts a single awkward, framed picture of the three of us during worship at a local church – donated by a friend and hung on a window by the industrious Phoenix after we kept shunting it off various chairs and tables – seeing a beautifully decorated home made me long for my own.  I’m not sure that it would be any less Spartan than the one we live in now, but at least I wouldn’t feel guilty for avoiding the scattered cutlery that line our counter, sink, and dusty drying rack. 

…So it was from this paradise that we drove off again to climb 8km up the side of a volcano to see the largest lava lake at an altitude of 3400m.  


My room - lovely, and made more so
by the green pressing in
The front yard














Part II
Part III

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